Chouinard Camalots 1st Generation
Released in 1987, these 1st generation Camalots were a major step forward in cam design. The double axles gave them greater range than a single axle design while keeping the camming angle consistent.
Notable features of the 1st generation units are:
- A three piece plastic cover and thumb bar arraignment over the U-shaped cable stem
- Knurled thumb bar and trigger
- “Ball shaped” swages mating the axle housing to the cable stem
The “ball shaped” swages were an interesting issue with these units. When they were weighted they tended to cause cracking in the axle housing, acting as something of a wedge, and compromising the strength of the piece. The ball design was changed in later units.
I have #1, #2 and #3 Camalots made by Chouinard Equipment. I still climb on them (in 2021). What’s their (theoretical) lifespan?
That’s a hard question to answer. It depends on their history and how much use or abuse they’ve had. Aluminum parts have a pretty long lifespan if maintained properly but nylon slings and plastic components can degrade quickly.
I’ve always operated on the premise that anything I’m the least bit unsure of isn’t worth a potential accident. I retire anything that doesn’t inspire confidence.
I’ve used my No 1 – 3 Chouinard Camalots since the end of the 80’s. The double-wire stem design is a bit wobbly on the No 3 (i think it used to be more rigid when new). No1 – 2 still works a charm, but then they have a molded plastic crossbar connecting and covering the wire stems. No 3 has separate tubes.on the wires. The wire clip-in loop on early Camalots may benefit from some tweaking imho. I’ve fitted a transparent vinyl tube on the loop section of the wire for better handling and wear-protection. It also gives a nicer bend to the wire when loaded (I used to do a lot of aid). This also allowed me to retro-fit webbing slings directly to the loop – looks very silmilar to its 2022 siblings. I don’t mind the reduced strenght from the knot. The camalots are not rated 22Kn anyway.. Super good enough (for me), as they say on hownot2. The tube is slit longitudinally, stayed in place for some 30 odd years, and so far no rusting of the wires!
In 2017 I bought my first non-Chouinard Camalots, and have sinces added a full range of shiny stuff to my kit. But the old Camalots – albeit rather worn – still hold their place nicely on my rack.