Leeper Anti-piton
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- Stacked with an aluminum bong piton
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- Stacked with an aluminum bong piton
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- Stacked with an aluminum bong piton
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- Stacked with an aluminum bong piton
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- Stacked with an aluminum bong piton. Notice the amount of “free blade length” above the spine of the bong. This allows for slippage of the Anti-Piton when loaded.
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- Stacked with a steel angle piton.
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- Stacked with a steel angle piton.
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- Detail of the steel angle piton stack.
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- Detail of the aluminum bong stack.
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- Two pitons stacked spine to spine. Experiment with placements! its fun to figure out how much they will hold.
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- Anti-Pitons could also be used in constrictions like a chock.
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- Anti-Pitons could also be used in constrictions like a chock.
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- Anti-Pitons could also be used in constrictions like a chock.
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- Stacked along the spine of a steel angle piton. This technique is useful in wide shallow placements. Set both pitons with a tap of the hammer. Tug outward on the Anti-Piton to increase the camming effect. Use a tie-off around both pitons to reduce leverage.
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- Stacked along the spine of a steel angle piton. This technique is useful in wide shallow placements. Set both pitons with a tap of the hammer. Tug outward on the Anti-Piton to increase the camming effect. Use a tie-off around both pitons to reduce leverage.
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- Stacked along the spine of a steel angle piton. This technique is useful in wide shallow placements. Set both pitons with a tap of the hammer. Tug outward on the Anti-Piton to increase the camming effect. Use a tie-off around both pitons to reduce leverage.
Ed Leeper designed the “Anti-Piton” by reimagining his very effective Z piton and reversing the taper. They came in two sizes.
The idea was to stack the Anti-Piton roughly perpendicular to another piton or chock. By loading the Anti-Piton downward, the piton was designed to jam and hold.
Unfortunatly, in practical application their holding power wasn’t very inspiring. In tests I have had them hold fairly well when stacked with a Chouinard aluminum bong piton (they tend to “bite” and settle in well) but in most cases I found that lightly “setting” the stack with a hammer was often necessary thus defeating the clean climbing concept. Others may have had better luck but the idea never gained widespread acceptance. Anti-Pitons were introduced at a time when camming unit technology was just emerging and becoming reliable. They are an interesting transitional concept.
Cool! Thanks. Looked up piton stacks and there you were! I don’t climb anymore due to injuries, but I love looking at dicey pro to remember the terror!?.