VauDe “Friend Remover”
VauDe introduced this cam extraction tool in 1986. The design is very similar to the “Climber Pal Extractor” by Sunshine Climbing Equipment and a bit like the more well know Leeper “Friend of a Friend” extractor but the Vaude tool is set apart by some additional features.
The most interesting refinement is the “set screw” added to allow cams to be retracted and held in the retract position. This can aid in placing cams at slightly more than maximum arm reach but really shines when trying to clean a stuck unit. The tool can be used to keep a constant pull on the trigger while the climber used both hands, a nut tool, and maybe a little elbow grease to work on over-cammed units.
The sturdy construction of the body of this Friend Remover gives it a good feel and you can even use the plunger head to knock on stubborn placements. I have always thought the Leeper “Friend of a Friend” rattled a bit too much and felt too light to apply much force.
The narrow channel between the forks make the VauDe design applicable only to early type ridged stem Friends and their close copies. The ends of the forks have a nice hook feature that seats securely on the trigger. One issue I noted is illustrated in the photos above where the thickness of the green sling keeps the stem from fully seating on the plunger. Care has to be taken to insure the camming unit stays in the tool.
I think the VauDe friend remover was designed by Jesse Guthrie. I have his prototype, another is at The Gendarme , Seneca Rocks, WV. Jesse lives in the Czech Republic these days, and I think he still works for VauDe.
Hey John, yes you’re correct.. my climbing partner and I designed the friend retriever.. he was a Physicians’s Assistant, Joe Murray, my partner on the first ascent of Sunshine at Seneca Rocks.. he got the basic idea from tools used in surgery, then we honed it to work with Friends.. 🙂 early 80’s I think..
Thanks so much for providing the history on this Jesse and John! It’s always great to get the history right from the source.
Thank you for your contribution to the site and for your contributions to climbing.