Leeper Anti-piton

Ed Leeper designed the “Anti-Piton” by reimagining his very effective Z piton and reversing the taper. They came in two sizes.

The idea was to stack the Anti-Piton roughly perpendicular to another piton or chock. By loading the Anti-Piton downward, the piton was designed to jam and hold.

Unfortunatly, in practical application their holding power wasn’t very inspiring. In tests I have had them hold fairly well when stacked with a Chouinard aluminum bong piton (they tend to “bite” and settle in well) but in most cases I found that lightly “setting” the stack with a hammer was often necessary thus defeating the clean climbing concept. Others may have had better luck but the idea never gained widespread acceptance. Anti-Pitons were introduced at a time when camming unit technology was just emerging and becoming reliable. They are an interesting transitional concept.

You may also like...

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.